Original Croft Orgonite Making Recipes
The Following are the Original Don and Carol Croft Orgonite Making Recipes that used to be on the EthericWarriors website.
Contact us for pdf copies of these directions.
How to make TowerBusters (TBs) I.E. Tactical Orgonite
Tower Busters (TB’s) are considered “tactical orgonite” because they are the basic, first-line of defense in taking back the energy of the earth and stopping the Deadly Orgone (DOR) energy from being propagated through cell/death towers. These are good for throwing at cell towers, throwing in water, putting in potted plants at the mall, or just about anywhere you need to change the energy. TB’s have an effective range of about 1/4 mile, so you don’t have to place a TB right next to a death tower to affect it. You can bury it nearby or throw it in some convenient shrubbery.
Many gifters have reported seeing bulldozers scraping up all the dirt from around a death tower after it’s been neutralized with a TB, so you know that the tower operators are desperate to get rid of the orgonite because it’s doing it’s job. We usually toss more than one TB per tower just to make sure that if one is found there are others to continue the job.
Some energy sensitive people are able to tell that a tower is busted just by looking at it or feeling the energy coming from it. Carol reports that a busted tower has dark energy lines running down the sides, which means the DOR is being contained and not broadcast by the tower.
Basic supplies:
1. Some kind of mold, such as a muffin tray or small paper cups. The mold should be at least 3 oz. to hold enough orgonite to be effective.
2. Fiberglass or poly resin with catalyst – You can find resin lots of places, such as auto parts stores, boat stores, auto body shops, hot tub manufacturers and the big box hardware stores like Home Depot. Resin has been getting more expensive so you will have to do some research on how to get a good price. The best value is if you can find someone selling it in 5 gallon buckets. Make sure you also get the catalyst, which is a liquid that you add to the resin to make it harden.
3. Metal – Just about any metal will do. The cheapest to find is aluminum, which you can get from a machine shop or sometimes your local recycling center. It’s best if the metal is curly, because the energy traveling around the metal spirals creates stronger orgone. Some people like to use brass, copper and titanium, which are more expensive but look nice. Fancy metal is not necessary for tactical field pieces but can look really nice in beauty items that you might want to sell.
4. Crystals – A plain quartz crystal chip works fine for a basic TB. You don’t need a crystal with a point. You can pick up a milky piece of quartz crystal off the ground and use that. One economical way to get crystal chips is to get a strand of chips from a bead store. There are a couple hundred chips on a strand and they are inexpensive if you are getting plain quartz. You can add any other gemstones you like to make fancier orgonite, but it’s not necessary.
To make small orgone devices, like with everything , it is good to be prepared.
Have on hand:
- a big sheet of cardboard or a trashbag to cover your worksurface. (The stuff is very sticky and will mess up a table good.)
- rinsed half gallon cardboard milk cartons, for mixing the resin with the hardener (they have a spout for pouring)
- rubber household gloves to protect your hands
- a couple of old spoons, for spooning the metal into the muffin tins, that is if you have metal of sawdust size (that stuff can cut your hands. I got lots of little nicks the first time) - a stick for stirring the hardener into the resin
- some rags, old socks or the like for wiping off your utensils. That stuff does not wash off.
Assembly:
1. I use non-stick muffin pans but of course the resin contracts as it cools, so even the cheaper ones work fine.
2. While you're in Wicked WalMart getting those pans, and if you don't have any little pieces of quartz on hand, go to the craft section and get the mesh bags of tumbled rocks (the smaller rocks). Pick out the quartz and other crystals. Those are the ones that are semi-transparent and most of them are kind of dirty-looking inside. The white ones are usually just marble, so don't be fooled by them. I generally use small quartz pieces, often just chips, that are between a quarter and a half inch long.
3. Drop a small crystal in each muffin mold.
4. Fill the molds almost to the top with loose metal. Remember that 3oz is sufficient and that the molds are each 4oz. I want you to get the absolute most bang for your hard-earned or even lazily-obtained buck. 3oz is sufficient for busting most of the single transmitters you'll encounter and even for turning those frowns of a chapel-full of devil-blasting churchgoers upside down.
5. Pour the resin in by stages until it comes almost up to the top. You’ll have about 15 minutes after adding the catalyst to the resin to do your pouring, as the resin will begin to harden. You need a temp of at least 40 degrees F to pour resin, and the higher the temp in your workshop the faster the resin will harden. The mold will get hot while the resin is hardening, so don’t be alarmed (you may even see smoke - totally normal).
6. When I'm going to toss out a bunch in town, I paint them green and brown. You'll be surprised how difficult these are to find once they've been tossed.
Do it in a well ventilated garage or outside and if you are sensitive to chemicals get a good mask. One and a fourth liter (about five cups) is enough for two muffin trays.
If it is cold the stuff I use will take over night to solidify. On my first try the TBs stuck in the pan. Warming them up seemed to shrink them. I now put them in the sun and cover them with a sheet of plastic or the like. No more sticking.
You will have to do some experimenting to figure out the best method for you in terms of pouring resin, adding metal, etc. Some people like to mix the resin and metal together first, then spoon it into the mold. Other pour the catalyzed resin in on top of the metal and let it soak down. Have fun!
Earth Pipes (EP’s)
by Don Croft
Some of us feel that the underground bases are the next high priority after busting the cell towers in an area, taking back the earthgrid and neutralizing satanic institutions and killing sites/vortices. Most of the towers are on the earth grid and vortices and most of the satanic sites are also on or close to these features, so you’ll get a lot of Bang for your orgonite Buck ;-).
For now, I’m also recommending Vancouver Steve’s treasured method: fill a toilet paper core tube with orgonite and a single, 1″ long quartz crystal of any quality, wrapped in a coil, and drop it down a fencepost, stop sign pole or any other (at least) 2″ diameter pipe that’s set in the ground. Steve carries a little stepladder on his bicycle for his urban gifting missions. This does double duty as a towerbuster and underground base buster. Yea, Steve!
By the way, Brent in Northern Alberta came up with this idea independently, too, at the same time and adopted this as his winter gifting modus operendi until the thaw. I hate to think about where we’d be now without the informal corps of hotblooded Canadians in this network!
Brent once hired a bush pilot to take him to gift a primary earth node farther to the north and Gerard in Australia undertook a similar sortee in the Outback in his own airplane. Doc Batiibwe and Kizira lately hired a big dugout canoe to locate and gift some primary (watery) earth energy sites in Lake Victoria near the headwaters of the Nile. No discussion like this is complete without a mention, at least, of our intrepid African compatriots.
Gale, Laozu Kelly, Stacie, Carol and I conceived this long-range way to disrupt and neutralize underground predatory tech. The effective range of an EP seems to be a few miles, and you can get a stronger effect by pounding in three earthpipes together in a triangle formation. The unfortunate part of disabling underground sources of deadly energy is that the results are not as visible, so we have to rely on the psychics or our own instincts for confirmations. I hesitate to recommend anything for which you won’t get abundant physical confirmations but I feel okay about recommending the deployment of Earthpipes because the threat represented by these horrible underground facilities is quite severe, in my opinion, and very widespread. The following instructions describe how we make ours.
HOW TO MAKE AN EARTHPIPE
1. Cut a length of 1 1/2 inch copper or aluminum pipe into 13″ lengths. The short length of pipe shown here is to make an orgonite “plug” which you can then remove from the short pipe and slide into the 13″ pipe. Some folks find it easier to make the plug first and insert it into the full-length pipe. You can also use an empty toilet-paper tube to make plugs but they are less sturdy than using a copper pipe for the plug. However, toilet-paper plugs are excellent devices for inserting into metal fence posts, such as the kind you find around government installations and institutional buildings. The hollow fence post effectively acts as the EP when you insert the plug.
2. Thoroughly tape one end of each pipe closed. If you’re not thorough, resin will leak out the bottom. Optional – Temporarily tape or wire seven of the pipes together so that the whole will stand up by itself with the taped ends at the bottom.
3. Select a suitable crystal for each pipe. We use crystals that are at least an inch long and at least a quarter inch thick and have one distinct point. Clear quartz is suitable and smoky quartz gives the EP added punch.
4. Cut 13″ of bare copper wire. We use 18 AWG wire but the point is to use wire that’s thick enough to hold a shape and thin enough to work easily. A coil winder is wonderful for making suitable coils.
5. After bending the wire to resemble the end of a big screw, just like was done for the HHG, only smaller, pinch the small end of the coil around the middle of the crystal. Remember that the whole thing will have to fit easily in the pipe. You may want to tape or glue the coil to the crystal so the unit doesn’t fall apart when you drop it down into the pipe.
6. Here’s the mind bending bit: as with the HHG, these are being made upside down. The crystal in the Earthpipe points down into the ground and towards the hollow end of the pipe, which is the bottom end that gets pounded into the ground. When the pipe is in the ground, the crystal points down and the copper coil opens upward from the middle of the pipe. For adding orgonite, however, you turn the pipe bottom side up, add a bit of orgonite, drop in the crystal/coil combo with the wide end of the coil pointing down, and then fill up with pre-mixed orgonite to about the halfway mark of the pipe.
7. I measured the amount of orgonite in an Earthpipe and it’s five ounces, so after you drop the crystal/coil in the pipe in the proper orientation, just spoon in the remaining orgonite. If you mix it loosely enough, the mass of orgonite will fill in around the coil and crystal, don’t worry.The orgonite ‘plug’ in the top of each EP needs to be at least five inches long, so drop 2 or 3 oz of mixed orgonite in each pipe.
8. When you get to the target area, just pound the whole thing down into sufficiently soft, stone- free ground. I hammer the pipe with a six pound sledge hammer. It damages the pipe a little but that’s okay. Remember that the orgonite plug is in the top of the device. This takes advantage of the resonant cavity principle.
Ryan McGinty was very kind to furnish these photos, which he took when I was making up a large number of ‘plugs’ for earthpipes. In fact, the short pipes shown in some of these photos were an early attempt at mass production. I’ve since made up a silicon mold which will accommodate six plugs at once, and please note that you can just tape seven of the 13″ pipes together and spoon approx. five ounces of mixed orgonite in each pipe, allowing for the proper positioning of the crystal/coil artifice in the middle of that plug, of course. Be sure to adequately tape the bottom ends of the pipes shut or you’ll be making a big resin puddle.
If you do opt to make orgonite plugs, you simply pound the plug out of the short pipe after the resin has cured, then insert the bare orgonite plug into the longer pipe or use it in a fence post.
Cloudbuster (CB)
The following was written by Don Croft in 2001 and is still relevant to building a Cloudbuster today. Don’t be intimidated by these instructions. It’s very easy to make a Cloudbuster and begin positively affecting the weather and energy in your area. A Cloudbuster is essential for stopping HAARP generated weather. You must also gift all the towers and weatherballs in your area. The effective range of a Cloudbuster with 5-foot pipes for balancing weather is approximately 20 miles. For affecting the stratoshere it seems to about 200 miles up.
It’s a good idea to move your CB once in a while, especially if your skies are being chemtrailed a lot, are whited out, or are filled with rainclouds that don’t drop rain. The NWO sends helicopters and planes over the CB’s to determine their field and neutralize it. Moving the CB even just a foot will make their neutralization efforts worthless.
CLOUDBUSTER DIRECTIONS
Carol and I got these specs by dowsing, and they work very, very well, though may not be the last word, if you get my drift.
BUCKET: Base: 9″ in dia., 9″ deep. I use two-gallon plastic buckets from the Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food buckets, available from restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets from drywall contractors are fine. I leave the handles on, as the handles make it easier to move the finished cloudbuster.
COPPER PIPES: Six standard 1″ copper pipes, 6′ long, open at one end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so of the bottom of the bucket before casting. For portability and shipping, you can use 12” sections of pipe in the base, adding five-foot lengths by putting couplers between the 12” and five-foot pieces. You won’t need to buy as much copper pipe this way, too.
CRYSTALS: I glued a double-terminated quartz crystal, about 2″ long, into a .75” section of garden hose, and one of these devices is glued in turn inside each of the six copper end caps, pointing in the same direction as the pipe will be after the cap is glued on. I use ‘Goop’ glue. I taped around the cap where it joined the pipe to prevent resin from leaking into the cap during casting. [2008 edit] Single terminated work fine. Lemurian crystals seem to make the energy even stronger.
METAL PARTICLES: Get some metal particles from a machine shop, recycling yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign shops and aluminum fabrication shops are good places to look). I use aluminum for weight considerations, but ANY metal will do. Very fine particles (such as filings from a key-making machine) aren’t quite as good as ones that will easily go through a window screen & slightly bigger ones are okay. There really is a wide margin of suitability! .
PLYWOOD: Template 1 – 3/4” exterior plywood is used to make the base for the copper endcaps/pipes. I arrange the six pipes evenly around a 2 1/2” radius circle, which makes the pipes 2 1/2” apart on centers. A flat, 1 1/4” auger bit drills a suitable hole for each end cap. Template 2 – Make another piece to fit inside the rim of the bucket. Remember to cut a section away so you can fit your fingers under it to remove it from the bucket. This piece is not part of the finished CB, just used to get the spacing for the pipes right during construction. Cut the holes in this with a 1 1/8” flat bit so that it will fit well over the six pipes. This piece will hold the pipes in position while the second batch of resin hardens.
Template 3 – I make a circular plywood spacer for the top ends of the pipes, 4” radius with 1 1/8” holes on the same 2 1/2” radius circles for the pipe ends. This keeps the pipes parallel with each other and fairly rigid so you can point it at unholy things like predatory entities and City Hall
RESIN: I use polyester resin (used to build fiberglass boats) but epoxy also works, as does envirotech resin (this sets up very quickly, so you need to be proficient with it). (If you are going to construct many of these units, try to purchase your resin in 5 gallon buckets over the internet, possibly from a surfboard or boat manufacturing supply company. On a level surface, pour an inch or so of catalyzed resin into the bottom of the bucket and stir in metal particles until the surface is uniform and flat.
The ratio that seems to work is approx. one part resin to one part metal particles.
Put the base wood Template 1 onto that before it hardens, so that it just touches the surface and doesn’t sink in much. Pour a half gallon of catalyzed resin into the bucket after the six pipes are set into the holes in the base template. Use the dowel to stir in handfuls of metal particles in the same ratio as before. Note that the wood Template 1 should not be pushed down to the bottom of the bucket with the resin squishing over the top.
Expeditiously move the Template 2 down on to the six pipes until it is snugly within the rim of the bucket. Put the top Template 3 onto the top of the pipes and move them until the pipes are parallel. After the resin has hardened, remove the second template and set it aside. This is only used during construction, as I mentioned. You can finish off putting the resin/metal mixture in now in two stages if you want, up to within a half inch of the rim of the bucket. Now it’s finished (wait until it hardens before you shoot anything
A MONEY SAVING SUGGESTION, ALSO FOR BETTER PORTABILITY:
Cut six pipes, 12″ long, and put the crystals/endcaps on them for the base. Buy six joints which allow a pipe to come into them from both directions and stop at the middle. This allows you to make the rest of the pipe assembly from three pipes, 10′ long, cut in half. The finished product leaves you with only one piece of pipe, four feet long leftover.
When positioning the 12″ pipes for pouring the second layer of mix, temporarily tape the top ends of the 12″ pipes so no metal particles are dropped in them by mistake.
After the mix is made, take off the tape and push the rim plywood piece down onto the pipes so that it fits into the rim of the bucket. Put the spacers, then the 5′ pipes onto the 12″base pipes, then put the third (top) plywood piece onto the tips.
The pipes will look skewed, most likely, so just twist the top plywood piece around until the pipes line up parallel. As you do that, the rim plywood piece will move around. You need to do this expeditiously, though not in a hurry, so that the resin doesn’t harden before you’re done.
We experimented with 5′ extensions to the pipes to increase the range. It had a strong effect on the moon and on the upper atmosphere of the planet for hundreds of miles. We also apparently shut down the weather warfare facility under Homestead Air Force Base while we were in the Keys by leaving the extended cloudbuster pointing at the dead orgone field above it for a week.
We found that we don’t need to point it in any particular direction in order to clear the atmosphere of bad orgone, and the longer it’s left standing, the nicer it feels for a longer distance from the cloudbuster (many miles). We just stand it on its bottom, pointing straight up. We did once eliminate a belt of smog which was just off the coast by aiming at it for a few minutes, so direction can be a factor.
We also severely alarmed the operators of a UFO that was in the vicinity. It instantaneously shot out into space, where it remained in the same position relative to us, so the basic 6′ long pipe configuration apparently only affects the atmosphere.
Do be discriminating which UFO’s you aim at, though. If they are not predatory and you make them mad, they may pay you back by messing with your carburetor or something, as they did to us once. The really advanced ones are not susceptible to the cloudbuster, as they apparently don’t need a deadly orgone field to operate. Our take is that all but these use nuclear fusion or some other noxious, old-paradigm energy source. It’s open season on the B Sirian craft and other predatory ones, as far as we’re concerned. They can’t hurt you, by the way, if you aren’t afraid of them. Universal law restricts them more than it does us. We can pay later for breaking it, but they are just unable to break it, apparently.
Cloudbusters destroy chemtrails consistently. It may take a few days for your cloudbuster to activate the environment enough to do this, but after that point the spew will disappear within seconds of leaving the UN jets and dissipated trails that drift within range of the cloudbuster will also disperse, but more slowly. The ones that are made up of solids take longer to dissipate, but we’ve found that these only make up about 10% or so of the spewing episodes.
The evil intent of the UN is most apparent to me in the fact that Lucius Trust (formerly Lucifer Trust) publishes all of its official literature and dictates its philosophy. Only this belief system, which closely resembles the doctrine of the Nazi party, could condone the rampant genocide which is now being carried out by the UN.
Dr. Reich’s cloudbusters were extremely dangerous when in operation since he had no orgone generator attached to them. Bad orgone does carry a charge which can quickly drain one’s life force away when it’s concentrated in one spot. It’s slightly similar to a strong positively charges static electrical field. When cloudcover is unproductive or unbalanced (too much lightning, for instance, or too much rain) the cloudbuster busts it up. We plowed a furrow through a line of artificially created thunderstorm in June, 2001. Carol said the square-shaped thunderheads were chock full of predatory ET’s, bent on mutilating animals at the time.
It also stops droughts. Overall, it just balances the weather, I think it sort of mediates between the ground and the atmosphere somehow. The one in Namibia finally brought heavy rain to the desert there. It happened 9/5/01, and continued for several days. Gert, the fellow who made the cloudbuster and reported the occurrence, told me that this had simply never happened in the Namib desert before to the best of anyone’s knowledge. It’s arguably the driest region on the planet.
WARNING: If you touch the pipes when they’re drawing in strong unbalanced or dead orgone and don’t put your hand on the base after that, you may experience headaches, even into the next day, as a friend of ours did recently. Mind you that our efforts, though somewhat pioneering, should be seen mainly as a springboard for further developments rather than the last word. SUGGESTION: If you want even more rain, try putting water on top of the material in the bucket and/or hosing down the whole apparatus daily.
Holy Handgrenade (HHg)
The Holy Handgrenade (HHg) is like a bigger version of the Towerbuster, and if you are a Monty Python fan you will know where the name came from. The HHg has an effective range of about 5 miles and is useful if there is a tower that is on an inaccessible peak or if you just need a little more oomph in your gifting efforts. Gifters have ringed a mountain with HHg’s at the base to effect change to towers on the top. Many times you will find that the road to a mountain-top tower is closed to vehicles, so you can either hoof it on foot, ride up on a bike or motorcycle, or ring the bottom all the way around.
HHgs are relatively simple to make, they just take a bit more volume of orgonite than the TB and are traditionally made with more gemstones.
Supplies:
A mold – A set of cheap martini glasses from Target are the easiest mold, but you can also just make a cone shape with a piece of paper and set it up in some kind of stand to hold it upright while you pour the orgonite in.
18 gauge copper wire – you can find this at any hardware store
Crystal – for the HHg you will need a short, fat crystal that has a point. Clear quartz is fine, smoky quartz has a little more punch. You will also need some supplementary crystals that will just be dropped into the resin as you fill up the mold, if you want to make a fancier version. Suggestions are: amethyst, hematite, lapis, ruby, smoky quartz, obsidian, tiger eye. Use your intuition for this. You can either get tumbled pieces or buy a strand of gemstone chips at a bead or rock store.
Resin and catalyst – see suggestions on the TB Directions for sources of resin.
Here are Don’s instructions for an approximately 12 oz. HHg:
1. Fold a piece of typing paper twice and then open it into a cone shape. Tape the overlap and underlap with masking tape to help it hold its shape. After you’ve shaped it into a cone, put the opened cone upside down in a paper cup. Or use a martini glass, which can be easier and less messy.
2. We cut a 26″ length of 18 gauge copper wire and form it into a clockwise cone spiral (it resembles the tip of a big screw) so that it fits loosely inside the paper cone. The coil winder makes life a lot easier. Orgonita.eu is a Spanish site but Francisco, who runs the site, speaks excellent English, so email him if you have any questions. Orgone simply loves to run along and thru curved, orderly pathways. 26″ works well for us but there’s no specific reason for the length except Carol likes it. We haven’t seen any evidence that ‘lost cubits’ or other specific measures are relevant to this work, by the way.
3. Put a big pinch of metal particles into the pointy end of the cone, right on top of the little end of the copper spiral. I like to use BBs (small, copper or zinc-coated ball bearings that American kids shoot from air rifles) for the tips of my HHgs but they’re very heavy and expensive if you’re making a lot of HHgs and TBs. The spherical form and also the plated zinc and copper over steel provide some pretty dynamic energy qualities but any meta waste from a machine shop is more than sufficient.
4. Shove a fat crystal, point down, into the metal so that it’s standing up, then put a little more metal in to hold it in place. I use very cheap, funky-looking crystals for this which have one distinct end. Any form of quartz works fine, by the way, for any of the items mentioned in this document – amethyst, rose quartz, citrine, etc. Save the nice ones for personal devices, though, if you feel inclined to experiment with the dynamics of gemstones. For an HHg I’ll use anything that’s at least an inch long and a half inch thick with one distinct point.
5 . Now pour enough catalyzed resin in to saturate the metal. If your metal particles are too fine for the resin to pour thru before it hardens, mix the stuff before you put it in the inverted cone. Don’t learn this the hard way, as I did (and still do ;-)! The level of resin and the level of metal after it’s saturated needs to be about the same, otherwise you’re wasting some resin. It’s better to have metal sticking out of the bottom of the finished product than to have less metal than resin. It’s the metal that does the work, apparently; the resin is the matrix.
6. We add a bit of garnets, hematite and crushed pyrite to the orgonite, sometimes; it’s an optional process for this device but this is a tried and true combination of minerals for enhancing and grounding the effects of the material. If you’ve got a talent for this process, add whatever you like. If you don’t have a feel for it, be aware that the improper combination of elements will reduce the effectiveness of your devices. There are books that can teach you the properties of gemstones and minerals and these properties are greatly enhanced by orgonite. My favorite, because it’s based on a combination of intuitition and empirical testing, is Michael Gienger’s CRYSTAL POWER, CRYSTAL HEALING. I don’t personally care much for channeled literature because there’s no science behind it. Science and spirituality are inseparable, in my opinion. Leaving one or the other out of our personal life leaves us either materialistic or superstitious but when they’re in harmony, we’re empowered and intelligent.
7. Fill to the brim, in stages if necessary, with orgonite and when it’s hard, it’s finished. You can leave the paper on or peel it off. I leave the paper on and sometimes paint them green and brown with spray paint if I won’t be burying it and you’d be surprised how hard it is to see a camouflaged HHg once it’s been put in a bush or other hiding place. Make sure you place the HHG with the cone pointing up or it won’t be nearly as effective. Toss a few TB’s in the area as well to disguise the distinctive cone-shaped orgone energy that comes off the HHg.
Notice that I’m not putting any additional crystals in the mix as we’d advised in earlier instructions. I simply found that using one bulky crystal in the point makes the other ones extraneous. I think the coil is important in this case. Save the fancy efforts for your personal devices.
In case you don’t know, when you put your nose over the point of an HHg and breathe, the effect is exactly like when you breathe pure oxygen – your rib cage expands like an accordion and you feel rejuvenated. That’s an orgone effect.